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Post by tommyd on Jan 25, 2017 3:26:44 GMT -8
Does anyone have a step by step on the sightin, including what should be set in ALL settings. I have tried 4 times with the short guide but nothing seems to work. It maybe a setting that is not letting it zero.
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tomvb
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DPMS LR308, Ruger Mini 14, XS 3-14x
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Post by tomvb on Jan 25, 2017 5:12:37 GMT -8
Tommy, the settings for your scope are as much personal preference as anything. Daytime screen brightness level, whether or not to use the sunshade or peephole, things like that. Opinions differ a bit there, but practice will give you an idea what works for you!
And there are a bunch of posts here about zeroing, but here are a few hints and a step by step from a posting by member Odin.
For starters, make sure you have the range (upper left screen #) set to your zero range. If zeroing at 25 yards set to 75'. Gotta do that or you'll be off on subsequent shooting at different distances.
From Odin:
Post by odin on Jan 1, 2017 at 2:54pm
"Here is the best explanation I have seen for zeroing the scope from Kim Maurer on the FB page.
Have also seen it mentiond over there to make sure ballistic calculator is turned off - so very good advice."
"X Sight II for New Folks
Zero Process:
- Do a factory reset to clean any corrupted data.
- Select your scope or device type in Settings.
- Select the Profile you wish to zero. You can add new profiles in the scope menu and edit them using your smart aleck phone.
- Zero "Range" of 50 yds. works great on most calibers. And it is easy to see!
- Make sure all data lines are updated. The factory provides default data that you must update: Bullet weight., muzzle velocity, scope height, etc..
- Don't forget to measure and enter your scope height! (Center of bore to center of front lens).
- Bore Sight, if possible. Some rail adapters have adjusters for elevation.
- Select "Zero reticle."
- Start at base magnification (3X or 5X)
- Shoot a round. Move the colored reticle to the bullet hole. Don't "zoom" to look. The white reticle (doesn't move with button clicks) must be held where you aimed originally.
- Click "Enter." Select "Save and Exit."
To fine tune, Select "Zero Reticle." Zoom to your highest magnification
Repeat process.
Hope this helps. Tom
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odin
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Laxing out in the land of Rugby, Hunting and Fishing.
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Post by odin on Jan 25, 2017 10:58:21 GMT -8
Add to this is that I am starting to understand that the fine tune second zero at max zoom is just as important, as i think it compensates for the reticule shift that oldspook has talked about.
Do your zoom at 25m (also set your zero in range at 25m)
That way when you set you BC going it will work.
Also set your range at the range you are shooting.
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Post by wilks2967 on Jan 25, 2017 12:07:25 GMT -8
I'm experiencing some of the same frustration as I'm sure many first time users have had as well. The feet measurement in one area and the yards measurement in another area is ludicrous. I was trying to sight in the sight yesterday at only 50 yards and was about to pull my hair out. Was punching out the center with my Rem 700 .243 at 50 yards. I like to zero at 100. So I moved back to a lasered 100 yards. 4 inches high with the next shot. Never could get it zeroed at 100 before I called it quits. I've spent most of today reading and learning, and hopefully I have the process now to make a more educated attempt at sighting in the Xsight 2 5-20 this afternoon. I will say I am very disappointed at the lack of clarity at only 100 yards in daylight zoomed at 20x. No amount of tinkering with the focus knob or the ocular or combination there of ever produced a clear picture of the sight in target at 100 yards.
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odin
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Laxing out in the land of Rugby, Hunting and Fishing.
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Post by odin on Jan 25, 2017 12:13:57 GMT -8
Wilks
You pretty much need to forget all you know about optical sights because this is a very different beast.
Try the sequence above at 25m - am sure you will then be nailing tacks with it.
Look forward to hearing how you went.
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Post by wilks2967 on Jan 25, 2017 12:22:18 GMT -8
Wilks You pretty much need to forget all you know about optical sights because this is a very different beast. Try the sequence above at 25m - am sure you will then be nailing tacks with it. Look forward to hearing how you went. Quick question...once I'm sighted in at 25m, will the scope "compensate" for a 100 yard zero or will I actually have to do the sighting in at 100 yards to set a 100 yard zero? This where I get confused I think. Do you merely have to get the scope shooting correctly at a known distance, then tell it what distance you want the reticle zeroed to? Keep in mind I am not even talking about the built in ballistic shooting solution, just the zero process. |
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Post by wilks2967 on Jan 25, 2017 12:28:36 GMT -8
I'm just gonna re-read the tomvb post above a couple more times and probably again just before trying the zero process again.
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odin
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Laxing out in the land of Rugby, Hunting and Fishing.
Posts: 700
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Post by odin on Jan 25, 2017 13:22:04 GMT -8
Leave your zero range at 25m. If you are shooting 100 yards change your range to that - the set range appears on the screen as data.
Remember - it is first and foremost a computer. If crap is inputted only crap will come out.
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jdb
Contributor
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Post by jdb on Jan 25, 2017 13:22:35 GMT -8
I sighted my rifle in at 50 yards generally as described above...entered the ballistic data for the cartridge I was using...activated the ballistic shooting solution program...then by changing the distance to target (using the distance shortcut, note: the distance is in feet not yards) to 300 feet and 600 feet I was on target at 100 yards and 200 yards respectively. If you want a pure 100 yard "zero" set the zero range to 100 yards and the distance to 300 feet and go through the one-shot Zero process again at 100 yards. The purpose of the ballistic program is, of course, to allow you to be on target at a variety of ranges with one "zero". The accuracy of the point of aim at various ranges will be dependent on the accuracy of your ballistic data and the measurement you have entered for the distance between the center line of the bore and the center line of the sight. There is certainly a learning curve here and I'm still on the steep part of the curve so I feel your pain. Good luck!
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Post by wilks2967 on Jan 25, 2017 14:56:11 GMT -8
 Well, I set the range to 150 ft and set the zero at 50 yards. Chronographed the rounds as I was zeroing in. So if I understand everything, I can now set the range to whatever range I'll be hunting at and I should be good to go? I measured the sight height with a caliper at 2.60 inches. Entered all this into the profile along with the projectile data. |
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jdb
Contributor
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Post by jdb on Jan 25, 2017 17:02:39 GMT -8
I assume your shooting solution (ballistic) program was turned OFF during the zero-ing process. When you turn it ON and set your distance to the range you will be hunting (assuming it is different than 150 feet), you should see an adjustment to the "X/Y" coordinates the scope is automatically making to compensate for the change in range. This adjustment to the "X/Y" coordinates should be indicated on the lower part of your screen and a bit left of center. If you have not entered wind speed/direction, the only adjustment generated should be to the "X" coordinate which is the elevation.
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Post by tommyd on Feb 4, 2017 4:08:37 GMT -8
I have worked 6 times at getting this sighted in but still not luck. I have tried this morning at bore sighting it first and going to try one last time when it gets daylight. My sight didn't come with any manuals just feature sheets but I'm getting to the point where I'm ready to pull it off and sell it. Here is what I have tried.
1.I have entered all lines that I can, course no one has said anything about some of the settings like drag, so I'm leaving some stuff as they are.
2.I have turned off the shot cal. and have also checked/lock tighted all the mounts.
3.I have checked the sight height and have adjusted to as close as I could guess. About 3.4 for my scope.
4.I shoot from 50 yards and its not even close enough to hit a 4ft square. I know how to move to the impact point but if it doesn't hit the board to give me an impact point, its no good.
Now I have adjusted the reticle to about 1.5 inches about the boresight light and will try again this mornings but I don't like the fact that now my reticle is at the bottom of the screen when I look thought the sight, you would think that after its entered it would move back to center.
And no it's not the gun, I was shooting 1inch groups at 200yards with old scope on this 223.
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oldspook
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Post by oldspook on Feb 4, 2017 7:01:44 GMT -8
I have worked 6 times at getting this sighted in but still not luck. I have tried this morning at bore sighting it first and going to try one last time when it gets daylight. My sight didn't come with any manuals just feature sheets but I'm getting to the point where I'm ready to pull it off and sell it. Here is what I have tried. 1.I have entered all lines that I can, course no one has said anything about some of the settings like drag, so I'm leaving some stuff as they are. 2.I have turned off the shot cal. and have also checked/lock tighted all the mounts. 3.I have checked the sight height and have adjusted to as close as I could guess. About 3.4 for my scope. 4.I shoot from 50 yards and its not even close enough to hit a 4ft square. I know how to move to the impact point but if it doesn't hit the board to give me an impact point, its no good. Now I have adjusted the reticle to about 1.5 inches about the boresight light and will try again this mornings but I don't like the fact that now my reticle is at the bottom of the screen when I look thought the sight, you would think that after its entered it would move back to center. And no it's not the gun, I was shooting 1inch groups at 200yards with old scope on this 223. Did you set the model of the X-Sight in the setup? Very important to get that correct. |
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oldspook
Super Contributor
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Post by oldspook on Feb 4, 2017 17:04:36 GMT -8
"X Sight II for New Folks Zero Process: - Do a factory reset to clean any corrupted data. - Select your scope or device type in Settings. - Select the Profile you wish to zero. You can add new profiles in the scope menu and edit them using your smart aleck phone. - Zero "Range" of 50 yds. works great on most calibers. And it is easy to see! - Make sure all data lines are updated. The factory provides default data that you must update: Bullet weight., muzzle velocity, scope height, etc.. - Don't forget to measure and enter your scope height! (Center of bore to center of front lens). - Bore Sight, if possible. Some rail adapters have adjusters for elevation. - Select "Zero reticle." - Start at base magnification (3X or 5X) - Shoot a round. Move the colored reticle to the bullet hole. Don't "zoom" to look. The white reticle (doesn't move with button clicks) must be held where you aimed originally. - Click "Enter." Select "Save and Exit."
YOU MUST FINE TUNE: To fine tune, Select "Zero Reticle." This time Zoom to your highest STANDARD magnification
Fire a shot, move the colored reticle to the bullet hole.
-Click Enter. Select Save and Exit.
Repeat fine tune process until you are satisfied with your zero. Hope this helps. Tom The above modification needs to be made to the zero process. HTH -m- |
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Post by tommyd on Feb 5, 2017 7:43:06 GMT -8
Thanks, finally got it sighted in. Still not sure about how all the other settings will affect shooting outside the 50 yard zero. Still haven't found any info on drag and a few other settings.
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tomvb
Super Contributor
DPMS LR308, Ruger Mini 14, XS 3-14x
Posts: 493
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Post by tomvb on Feb 5, 2017 8:48:32 GMT -8
Thanks, finally got it sighted in. Still not sure about how all the other settings will affect shooting outside the 50 yard zero. Still haven't found any info on drag and a few other settings. Glad you got it zeroed Tommy. I posted some info a few minutes ago here that I now believe was incorrect, so I deleted it. Did a bit more research and found this website I think it will give you info on Drag factors. kestrelmeters.com/pages/g1-g7-ballistic-coefficients-what-s-the-differenceTom |
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Post by blackhogdown on Feb 5, 2017 17:52:01 GMT -8
Finally got to the range today after mounting my ATN HD II, 3x14 scope.
I quickly found out that my scope cross hair was off ~ 30" to the left of the target. I had a spotter watch my hits and I ended up centering on the target to the right of mine, but using corners, edges and anything else I could use as a zero point, I continued to get closer.
Once I finally got on paper, I began using the 1-shot-zero function, but had to use it several times. FINALLY got it dialed in after a factory reset towards the end.
Here are my final shots @ 50 yards. I need a better bench rest (gotta blame something), but now I have confidence on what this scope will do! I'm headed back next weekend and work on a tighter group. My X/Y readings were (X-100& Y 23). I think this looks a bit odd, but from the target, it shot OK. I still think I can improve on this.
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tomvb
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DPMS LR308, Ruger Mini 14, XS 3-14x
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Post by tomvb on Feb 6, 2017 5:37:26 GMT -8
Good shooting! Is that the result of that final zoom-in to fine tune it?
Tom
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Post by blackhogdown on Feb 6, 2017 7:16:40 GMT -8
TOMVB: This was really not the final sighting in, as I was in the process of zooming in, but the range officer was kicking everyone out since they were closing.
I am confident that I can get this "final" zeroing even better, and this was with Winchester .17 Super Mag ammo, and almost no wind conditions.
I want to purchase a couple boxes of Hornady .17 SuperMag and see if there is more consistency with this better ammo.
Since I have the ARMS #17 QD Scope mount, I can now move the scope to other platforms like my Ruger .22 Mag, AR .223, Rem .243 and maybe even my cross-bow.
I had another shooter next to me yesterday and he also was sighting in his new 3x14 on his .223. He had much faster zeroing than I did and he quickly moved from 50 yards down to the 100 yard range. I saw him give me the thumbs up several times. He was a happy camper when he left the range.
PS: I was using a 4,400 mAh external battery pack and had the scope on for 5 hours. It still had 33% power remaining at the end of the day. I also have a 20,000 mAh as a back up, but never needed it.
So far, I am STOKED with this scope. |
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Post by kevinp on Feb 6, 2017 10:07:51 GMT -8
Im using an FX Royale 177 air rifle.
So when zeroing using the one shot, does the range you are zeroing at have to be put in manually at the exact distance ??
as I am still struggling to use the range finder, every time I use it it does not give me a true reading of distance. for instance it could have say 25 meters in the top left corner but it seems way more then that.
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Post by blackhogdown on Feb 6, 2017 13:23:26 GMT -8
kevinp: for best accuracy, you should be zeroing at a known distance. Personally, I have also had issues with the built-in rangefinder. At a shooting range, the target stands are pretty accurate; 25 yards, 50 yards, 100 yards.
When I first got my scope (3x14) I was in my back yard trying to find the distance to a paper target stapled to my privacy fence. I ALWAYS got an erroneous reading. For optimum results, you should have a solid rest to hold the rifle very tight and still. This MIGHT improve the reading. Otherwise, you might consider purchasing a digital rangefinder or for shorter distances, simply use a 100 foot tape measure. Most everything I have read says 50 yards (150 feet) is the best range to start, but you can use 25 yards to start.
If you are considering a digital rangefinder, you might want to wait a few months, as ATN is offering their digital rangefinder which will connect wirelessly (Bluetooth) to your scope and the distance will automatically transfer to the scope.
Good Luck and let's stay in touch!
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Post by kevinp on Feb 6, 2017 14:28:26 GMT -8
kevinp: for best accuracy, you should be zeroing at a known distance. Personally, I have also had issues with the built-in rangefinder. At a shooting range, the target stands are pretty accurate; 25 yards, 50 yards, 100 yards. When I first got my scope (3x14) I was in my back yard trying to find the distance to a paper target stapled to my privacy fence. I ALWAYS got an erroneous reading. For optimum results, you should have a solid rest to hold the rifle very tight and still. This MIGHT improve the reading. Otherwise, you might consider purchasing a digital rangefinder or for shorter distances, simply use a 100 foot tape measure. Most everything I have read says 50 yards (150 feet) is the best range to start, but you can use 25 yards to start. If you are considering a digital rangefinder, you might want to wait a few months, as ATN is offering their digital rangefinder which will connect wirelessly (Bluetooth) to your scope and the distance will automatically transfer to the scope. Good Luck and let's stay in touch! Thanks Mate. Next time I will measure distance myself so that I know for sure then add on to screen. Will let you know the outcome. Thanks Again
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psps
Member
Posts: 2 
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Post by psps on Feb 12, 2017 12:25:29 GMT -8
I am a new user in the forums, and trying to get my X-Sight II 3-14x sighted in. If zeroed at 25yds, what do I have to do to get it to hit center at 100yds?? It is hitting high. Do I input distance - if so that didn't work. Smart shooting solution?? What? In hunting use, how do you use it at different ranges?
Also, it seems you'll have to have a different profile for every type of ammo, even if only on one rifle, since you need the info input into the profile. Is that correct?
Really like the concept of this scope but so far can't get it sighted in for all distances successfully.
Thanks in advance for assistance-
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tomvb
Super Contributor
DPMS LR308, Ruger Mini 14, XS 3-14x
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Post by tomvb on Feb 12, 2017 13:32:54 GMT -8
psps, zeroed at 25yards and rounds hitting high at 100 yards is perfect. The optic height and caliber of bullet will determine how many inches above your point of aim the point of impact will be.
Now if your profile zero remains at 25 yards, and your target is about 125 yards down range, you'll input 375' in the distance entry, activate the smart shooting solution and you should be golden!
As for your various profiles, you can set up 6 of them. Base it on bullet types, distances, whatever suits your needs.
Hope this helps.
Tom
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jdb
Contributor
Posts: 41
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Post by jdb on Feb 12, 2017 13:50:20 GMT -8
After sighting in at 25 yards using the methodology detailed above, change your distance to 300 feet (yes, distance is in feet...not yards)...leave the sighting in distance at the original 25 yards, input the ballistic data for the round you used when sighting in (in the profiles section), make sure the model of your ATN is input and the height of the sight above bore is recorded. Turn your Shooting Solutions/Ballistics Program to "ON". There is an icon on the carousel for the ballistic program. You "should" then be on at any distance you select if the ballistic data and height above bore is input correctly. For normal hunting situations, I would select a distance as my standard distance and get familiar with how far above/below the point of aim the point of impact is at various distances. If you think you will have the time to "range" your target, that feature is available and automatically inputs the range(distance), or your estimate of a distance can be input manually. Yes,you would have a different profile for each type of ammunition. I think this is a great feature of the scope...once sighted in for any particular type of ammunition, all you have to do is select that profile and go hunting.
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